Pav Bhaji

Writing in the context of public dining in Mumbai during colonial times, Conlon in his essay, “Food and Public Dining in Indian Tradition,” mentions the emerging trend of khanavals. Somewhere around 1830 onwards, when urbanization led to the import of “rural labour” (Conlon: 1995) there was a pressing need to address the issue of food. The workers were men from neighbouring villages and cities, living in chawls, (one-room tenements with common bathrooms) daily wagers who were on the look-out for dining options that were easy on the pockets. And thus came the khanavals, a form of inexpensive public dining, born out of a need to survive than a penchant for recreation. Today, the khanavals’ popularity are on a steady decline with barely a few of them, in and around Mumbai serving coastal food at a reasonable cost; but, in a way, it clearly paved the way for public dining for the common man in the city of Mumbai. It would not be entirely daring to assume that perhaps, somewhere in the course of Mumbai’s culinary history, the khanavals may have mutated or re-emerged in the avatar of khau gullies!

Mumbai bustles with the aroma of khau gullies; from Churchgate and Girgaum to Mohammad Ali Road, Khar and Ghatkopar, the city reverberates with the energy of these hawkers who usually are located near railway stations, colleges and office complexes; a wise strategy considering the number of consumers that throng such places, pressed against time, yet eager to satiate their appetites. While most gullies offer vegetarian food with the exception of egg based dishes, certain khau gullies serve mouth watering meat kebabs, koftas (meat balls) and shawarmas (Lebanese roll). From a snack to a full blown meal, there is something for everyone; buttery pav bhaji, pani puris, dabelis to dosas, noodles, sandwiches, momos, juices, milk shakes and the famous kulfi falooda. The dishes are prepared fresh and in a jiffy, thereby, epitomizing the term “fast-food.” Eat as much as the heart decides without burning a hole in the pocket! However, beyond the motley of dishes and the monetary value, what emerges as a striking feature is the crowd.

A college student, an auto-rickshaw driver, a corporate executive, a teacher/professor, a bank clerk, (in random order) any rank, any profession, any caste, any religion, any gender, all stand together to have a meal of their choice. It’s a site that embodies the cultural heterogeneity of the country and the city in particular. Just as there is no singular idea of Indian food, street food or otherwise; there is no singular impression of this vast land. Multiple threads of cuisines, languages, customs and religions make up the warp and weft of the diverse tapestry of this phenomenal land; and the khau gullies of Mumbai, are a humble yet significant symbol of the cultural enigma called India.

And before sentimentality takes precedence over gustatory relish- Here’s a recipe that is easy to make and satisfies the soul;

The very popular Mumbai Bhel Puri.

Bhel Puri

1.Take two cups of puffed rice which also goes by the name of murmura, in a large bowl.

2. Add four to six (even more if you like) puris/papdis (a type of wafers), a handful of roasted peanuts, and half a cup of sev which look like thin, tiny, noodle-like strips, made of gram flour.

3. Add a handful of diced boiled potatoes, some tomatoes, finely chopped onions and green chilies (optional).

4. To this, add half a tea-spoon of red chilli powder and chaat powder (a spice mix), a pinch of dry mango powder (or amchoor), a dash of green coriander chutney and tamarind chutney, some salt and a squeeze of half a lemon.

5.Mix well, garnish it with fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped and some more sev.

The beauty of this recipe is that the measurements are flexible and many more ingredients can be added, based on your choice and taste-buds. Go ahead, make this tangy, spicy Bhel Puri which brings together so many interesting ingredients to transform into something which has a bit of everything; sweet and sour with a tinge of tanginess, so quintessentially Mumbai!